I have to say that my favorite event during this past Spring/Summer 2019 New York Fashion Week had to be the Global Fashion Collective, which took place at Studio 59 located at the Chelsea Piers. The Collective is an expansion of Vancouver Fashion week and each designer is handpicked from Canada and throughout the world including, Japan, China, and Germany and of course the US.
I love the fact that the Collective is all about supporting emerging and up and coming designers, as these are the designers I love to promote. The Collective gives each designer a stage to promote his or her diverse and unique designs with maximum visibility. It’s so refreshing that a Collective like this one exists because I believe there are not enough platforms specializing to designers who have the potential to be the next big name. So, the following designers are the ones who were handpicked to participate this season and I can’t wait to share them with you.
Lillzkillz
Profanity’s Collection entitled, ‘Eat My Shorts’ transported me back to The Limelight where Club Kids ruled the night. But these weren’t your average Club Kids ensembles; these designs had tailored structure, special detailing, and thoughtful design aesthetics.
The designer, Lilea Goian is 20 years old and based out of Vancouver. She bases her brand on not only her personal style but also her attitude. I love that Profanity represents “freedom from the rules of society, the inclusivity, and the limitless possibilities.”
But, let’s get back to the ‘Eat My Shorts’ Collection which was inspired by a middle-class family and their beat-up car. “Using pieces from an old car yard, the collection consisted of a combination of athletic wear and business wear – as well as the occasional “rebellious teenager” inspired look.”
The colors in the collection truly reminded me of a vibrant rainbow, which included yellow, orange, white, brown, royal blue, and even neon green. And these colors were seen in the fabrics of faux fur, puffy fabrics, car printed textiles, clear vinyl, and then detailed additions of car parts such as rearview mirrors, seat belts, hubcaps, upholstery, headrests, and even a grill from the front of a car.
I can honestly say the entire collection was surprising in a good way and reminded me of collections by Richie Rich and Jeremy Scott but with a much more modern feel. You definitely should go check out the website at www.whatthefuckisshedoing.com and follow the brand on Instagram @_pr0fan1ty_ @lillzkillz
NOT DEAD YET
Not Dead Yet’s Spring/Summer 2019 Collection entitled ‘Eulogy’ gave me flashbacks to high school when I was obsessed with grunge. But Not Dead Yet’s version took that grunge aesthetic and twisted it into a version of modern streetwear that will attract both men and women. It’s interesting to me that the designer understands that you have to look back to move forward which in the end really works for his vision.
The designer, Adam-Lin Bungag is Vancouver based and known for his “experimental unisex apparel.” His brand is a multi-award winning line, which has brought him amazing recognition. I love that his brand has no identity and is available to everyone.
The Collection that came down the runway was full of plaids, clear and black patent vinyl, combat boots, and deconstructed tees. It was perfection for the mission that the designer was trying to get across to the viewers. To see more check out the website at www.shopnotdeadyet.com and make sure to follow the brand on Instagram at @notdeadyetofficial
NOZOMI KUWAHARA
Nozomi Kuwahara’s Spring/Summer 2019 entitled ‘VaCaTioN in Hawaii’ was perfect because as soon as the first design came out I felt like I was transported somewhere tropical. The eclectic collection took you straight to Hawaii especially with the models strutting down the runway carrying pineapples.
Japanese born but Vancouver based Nozomi Kuwahara launched her brand in 2017 bringing a fun and friendly collection to Vancouver Fashion Week. She is known for her “childlike, optimistic, and playful designs.”
When ‘VaCaTion in Hawaii’ came down the runway you saw her references from the many vacations she takes to Hawaii. The color inspirations for the designs were everything from rainbow-shaved ice, tropical fruits, to flowers. These vivid colors were translated onto soft and textured fabrics and even SPF50+fabrics that would protect your skin from the harmful rays of the sun. I was taken in by her whole collection because any woman could wear it, as it not only included tailored womenswear but casual wear as well.
Her collection reminded me of when Tory Burch was first starting out designing resort and sportswear for the Hamptons except that Nozomi makes sure to put a little more of the defined details and chicness to each design. Please check out her website at www.nozomi-kuwahara. And follow the brand on Instagram @nozomikuwahara
Kim Tiziana Rottmüller
Kim Tiziana Rottmüller’s Spring/Summer 2019 Collection entitled ‘Oblivion’ left me speechless, which is no easy feat. With each design that came out on the runway, it only made me anticipate the next one that was coming out and when it was over I only wanted more.
German-based designer, Kim Tiziana Rottmuller launched and has been working on her line since 2017. She is not only an amazing designer but a multi-award winning designer as well. Her design aesthetic is truly beautiful with an underlying provocation, which I was enamored with when it came to each of her designs. I find it interesting that “she maintains that everything is connected coherently with a surrealistic impact.”
As the collection came down the runway, the first aspect that caught my attention were the oversized, beautiful, bulky knits that looked like you just wanted to put them on and cuddle down into them. The designer took her inspiration for her collection “from a seductive, witchy diva, and deals with symbolism and spirituality.” She went on to say that, “The witch, a symbolism for our transcendental self and inner magical power, is supported with tarot cards included within the clothes.”
The colors throughout the collection were pastels such as lilac and pick accented with black that was used to bring the mystery and the darkness. I was caught off guard in a good way with all the ruffles, satins, structured puffiness, and the uber chic silver metal perforated head covers. There were certain aspects of her design aesthetic that reminded me of Comme des Garcons and a bit of John Galliano when he held the helm at Christian Dior. To see more make sure you check out her Instagram account @krincipessa
XY
XY’s Spring/Summer 2019 Collection needs a little bit of explanation. “XY is the first letter of the word Xiyuan, which can be roughly translated as “Cherish Predestined Relationship”, a concept that has a lot to do with Buddhism philosophy. “Yaun” can be understood as good karma perhaps.” I knew immediately with the first design that walked down the runway that the collection got its inspiration from Chinese cultures especially with a detailed focus on embroidery.
Chinese born and based designer, Han Zhang, of course, gets her ideas from works, from the ethnic Chinese Miao people and then fuses that detailed embroidery with a deep version of the color red and contemporary fashion concepts. With these inspirations, she makes what is ethnic, international. And even though her designs have an ethnic flair, that twist of modernism makes her designs classic.
The fabrics that Han Zhang designs with were flowing yet sumptuous. She used everything from silks, crepes, soft cotton, organza, satins, lace, tulle, and even chiffon. And even though the colors were few they were used well especially the purples, reds, and greens set with embroidery and beading against the black, grey, and white fabrics. I truly can’t compare her work to any other designer, which is not a bad thing, as I love seeing something that I have never seen before. It’s more memorable! You definitely need to see her website at www.xiytd.cn
Kirsten Ley
Kirsten Ley’s Spring/Summer 2019 Collection entitled, ‘Mitosis’ made me think “this designer needs her own runway show”. I have to admit that I was stunned with her collection as it covered everything from resort to evening.
Her collection was just flat out stunning. With each design that came down the runway, I could not take pictures fast enough. I wish I could have gone up to each design and inspected each ensemble up close, that is was how beautiful the collection was that she sent down the runway.
Kirsten Ley is a multi-award winning Canadian designer, and she definitely deserves each and every award she has received. “She molds thick leather by hand to imitate the lightness of organza rippling down the runway and manipulates chiffon with couture-style hand sewing to mimic the hardness of organic structural curves. Her empowering garments balance strong lines and hard tailoring with soft femininity, immense attention to detail, and free-flowing creativity of reckless abandon.”
Her ‘Mitosis’ Collection was one that Kristen Ley should be very proud of, as it was beyond elegant, chic, and unforgettable. The color palette of crimson, rich dark blues and bone were perfection for the fabrics used in each design. The leather, both baby soft and embossed, faux fur, tulle, silks, satins, and even metallic fabrics were exactly the right fabrics to make her collection feel elegant and opulent. You must see her website at www.kirstenley.com and follow the brand on Instagram @kirstenleystudios
CARLTON JONES
Carlton Jones’ Spring/Summer 2019 Collection entitled ‘Terra’, “celebrated the cross-pollination of global terrains.” As the runway show started I was not expecting resort wear but it did not disappoint. And then the collection only ramped up more as he sent out the flowing evening ensembles. I honestly can say I was blown away.
US designer Carlton Jones is a guru when it comes to designs with flowing fabrics on all body types as his designs forgive and accentuate and what woman wouldn’t want that. He has a signature for using elegant natural fibers in his silhouettes hoping his clients don’t feel like they are wearing just another piece of clothing but a feeling.
With this Collection, Carlton took me on an African safari with fluid, chic animal print for the day and shimmering silk ensembles coated in sequins in dessert tones for the night. And this is one of the many reasons why I loved his collection because he designs for all moments and just not for one occasion. His beautiful silhouettes and use of magnificent fabrics are part of his genius which reminds me a little bit of Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors. All I need to say is watch out New York, as we have another great US designer about to make a lot of heads turn. Do yourself a favor and check out his website at www.carltonjonescollection.com and follow the brand on Instagram @carltonjonescollection